"just make a dirty run for the border" -MW

So after counting our pennies and looking at the calendar, we reckon we've got another seven weeks before some giant airplane dumps us in Phoenix, undoing in 10 hours what took over six months and 1,500 gallons of Latin American petrol. We've redrawn a bead on our target from those days in Ensenada eating $.50 tacos that I'd pay $3 for now...Patagonia. We've hymned and hawed about the journey being more important than the destination, and true the time spent on the road so far is worth far more than any single point...but fuck it. Patagonia or bust.

Back in Portland we had consumed all manner of books and movies to help teach and inspire us in preparation for this drive. One movie in particular, 180 Degrees South was an account of Yvon Chouinard and Doug Tompkins(future founders of Patagonia and The North Face) as they road tripped, climbed and adventured their way from California to Patagonia. Well as it turns out, Zachary Slobig, the polite surfer who went everywhere with his microphone and with whom we shared a shipping container from Panama to Columbia was one of the movie's writers. Nothing like a little nudge to get you refocused eh?

Ecuador has had us feeling the first true "cold" since we left the snow in northern Arizona. Drizzly rain and snow capped volcanos has had us thinking happily of our home in the Pacific Northwest. We crossed the Equator and later that day drove the van up to over 15,000 ft on the side of Cotopaxi, one of the largest active volcanos in the world. And we almost zip-lined over a huge gorge until I asked the lady in charge if it was safe("es seguro??") and she replied "Es su vida"(its your life)! Tomorrow should see us on the coast in northern Peru. Ceviche, sunburns, and sweaty nights in the van await us and we couldn't be happier.
Burn rubber. Make tracks. Haul ass. Get the hell out of Dodge. Call it what you like- The journey's been great, but we're driving to Patagonia.

this was in Colombia, wedged into a canyon near the border. 

Good people at Quito Motors

the first snow since Arizona! this is Cotopaxi from our campsite at 12, 680 feet. 

wild horses near our campsite at Cotopaxi

this guy was checking us out near the snow line.

Cotopaxi, 19347 ft.

the town of Banos, along a river fed by thermal springs.

our "high" spot so far.

our campsite, and the launching pad for the zip-line crazies. yup, across the gorge in about 12 seconds.

equator, on the money!

we settled in for a little spa treatment in Banos. here we are getting the "vapor treatment."

breakfast time!

You're eyes aren't failing you, thats a gallon of gas for $1.48 American(dollars are the currency in Ecuador).

Time flies

Today is Febuary 5th. What?!? Wait, that cannot be right. Brian and I drove away from our beloved Portland on September 15th, 2011. Just a few days short of five months on the road has found us in Otavalo, Ecuador. Otavalo is a little city of artists and merchants. Tourists and Ecuadorians alike come here to purchase the handicrafts of the people. Due to budget and space constraints we have not purchased much by way of souvenirs yet on our drive. 

Today that changed. Brian and I hit the market with a shopping-fever unknown to two kids living in a van. Our money was literally burning in our pockets and Brian's sharp bargaining skills were honed to perfection. We definitely came out on top. New alpaca blankets, hats, wool ponchos, scarves and a rug for the van. In our spending defense, it is getting cold! Not to rub it in to our friends and family back at home, but we havent slept inside our sleeping bag since Montana. But with the ever-raising altitude (Otavalo is at 8,641 ft) and with our... donation of all our cold weather clothes to those fine late-night visitors in Guatemala we definitely needed some more cold weather stuff. 

Ecuador is cool. Literally. And so beautiful. The mountainous terrain is very different from the lush jungles that we were coming very accustomed to in Central America. The change in temperature and scenery is a welcome one. With five months down, well over the halfway mark on our timeline, we are both starting to think about the end of the trip. It is funny to remember that a mere five months ago we thought how strange it would be, living in the van and waking everyday in a new and foreign place. 

Now it is the most natural thing in our world. Foward and southbound we go. 

Woman selling... gourds?

He isnt too happy I caught him catching a free ride.
Dont worry friend, I would have done the same. It was a big hill.   

Cant go to the mercado? Well, let the mercado come to you!

Ahhh the start of the Andes... be still my heart. 

Now that is a good pour. Though it probably had something to do with me loosing cribbage. 

At the market

Yup. Hats are all the rage. Supposedly since before the spanish conquest in the 1600s.
Now that is a lasting fashion statement. 

Amazing artesanias and weavers.  Colors for miles! 

I will take three of everything! 

You cannot escape the banana. Even if you tried. 

Netflix Ecuadorean style

I love a good steeple. 

Camping Parqueadero style. Not at all scenic, but super cheap ($2.00!) and ultra safe in the city. And there is usually a bano!  

A few days in Bogota

A huge thanks to the Mesa family for hosting us in Bogota! A soft bed, amazing food and great times! And whats this?? A proper microbrewery?? Yes!

The entrance to the Zipaquira Salt Temple. We walked 2 kilometers underground to a cathedral carved from the inside of a salt mine.

This is 180 meters underground! We could hear them dynamiting in other parts of the mine.

Important trip planning out back with Mike and Senor Mesa. Notice Lulu in her argyle.

Brian, Lindsay, Senora Mesa, Senor Mesa, Cindy and Michael. And Lulu.

We visited the Museo De Policia National in Bogota. Pistolas!

Pablo Escobar gave this gold plated Harley Davidson to one of his henchmen for killing a hundred police officers. Its on display at the museum.

The gold and silver plated pistols used by "The Mexican," another of Pablo's bosses.

Senor Mesa is an emerald expert in Bogota. Here he's flashing what he's carrying(a $20k emerald).

Some more business in the emerald district downtown. 

Here is an unmanned Alpaca in downtown Bogota...

The Monalisa, at the Botero Museum downtown.

Another Botero, one of Lindsay's favorites!

Senor Mesa in his office hard at work! Notice the hammock on the wall. 

We took a gondola up to Monserrate, a huge hill overlooking the city.

Our friend and tour guide at the top of Monserrate. Thanks Mike!

Lastly, more issues with the van.... Luckily, the Parquedero where we will spend the night has a mechanic on duty.