Viva Mexico!

10/17/2011
The wind chimes clinking together make the only other noise to compete with the sound of my fingers tapping on the laptop keyboard. Brian and I are the only two people here at Coyote Cal's hostel in Erendira, Baja Norte, and we have been the only people here. For a while. So while we wait for the hostel proprietors, Brian is delving into some Harry Potter and am excited to tell you about our last few days. 

Though we have been in the van for one whole month now, it felt like we were just starting the trip as we drove over the international border at Tijuana. It was a perfect day for beginning travel. While we had to go to three different buildings to get the three different documents that we needed, crossing the border went pretty darn smoothly. It was a little difficult finding where the different buildings were, however, and wandering around the border town is not what one wants to be doing, especially with all of the vital documents in hand, ie, passports, van title and registration, etc. First we stopped at the most official looking building selling vehicle insurance, and after completing our business with the new Mexican vehicle insurance papers in hand, we were directed to the Aduana (Migration office). After plenty of practice saying no gracias to the street vendors and taxi drivers, we found the Aduana, only to be directed to another window, and then another, and then yet another that was about 5 blocks away down a semi-creepy alley to the Banjercito, where you purchase your vehicle permits. The successful and educational venture of obtaining our tourist's cards and the van's importation permit and insurance was a good indication that we were on Latin America time now. 

Tijuana didn't capture our interest any longer than to fill up at the Pemex (the national gas chain) as I already had my nose in the Camping in Mexico, Lonely Planet's Mexico and Drive the Americas books and Brian was trying to figure out which road was highway 1, the transpeninsular highway that runs the length of Baja. 

Our destination was a little campground outside of Ensanada, about 84 km south of the border, called Playa Saldamando. What we found was an empty (we are definitely in the off season), little tranquil paradise where you camp on the edge of the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean for a mere $15 dollars a night. We set up the hammock and watched as groups of delphinas played in the surf and chased their dinner till the sun dropped out of the sky. I think they might have been showing off for us. 

In the late morning after finishing up an episode of Breaking Bad (Thanks Andy for all the media!!) with some Maple instant oatmeal, we made the short trek into the fishing town of Ensanada. Brian took an early lead in the great taco eating competition of 2011, with 5 fish, shrimp and carne asada tacos at lunch. We left Ensanada with half a kilo of shrimp from the Mercado de Pescada (fish market), a bottle of Cabernet from a vineyard just south of the town, full bellies, and a love for the Baja and our trip. 

The hostel host has since returned from town and I end this sitting on a comfy old well loved couch in the main room of my very first hostel. Thanks to all of you for your incredible kindness and words as we start this amazing journey. We feel so blessed to be surrounded by such awesome friends and family!

10/19/2011

Two days later…we finally found internet! Now we are in the town of El Rosario, home of 105 year old philanthropist Mama Espinosa. Brian and I were here last May with the Flying Samaritans to open a weekend medical clinic and it feels great to come back. Last night Claudette made it out all the way to Punta Baja, 10 miles from town on a tricky dirt road with amazing ocean views. We enjoyed our first non-designated, pull off on the side of the road with a good view, free!, campsite right next to the ocean. The roads head inland for a while, so we filled up our lungs with fresh-off-the-pacific air. Into the desert we go. 

The hard life.

Ensanada

Morning marine layer.