Sin Topes Oaxaca: Hola amigos! I have timeshares for cheap!

A week ago we rolled into Mazatlan. Originally we would stay one night, speedily check out the old town, eat some fish tacos, and be on our way. Mazatlan is touristy, and touristy is what we are trying to avoid. After pouring over our Camping in Mexico by the Churches (our near-sacred text that we would be completely lost without), we found that it would be about the same cost to stay in a little motel with showers and free wifi (words that make us drool a little) as it would to park overnight in a dusty parking lot under the guise of a campground. Not on the beach. Hmmmm... what to do... so we found a little you-know-what-hole that looked semi clean, no cucaracha to be found (in the day light anyways) and had internet. I think the heat had maybe gotten to our heads, but the you-know-what-hole worked out.

The next day after getting a late start and a little south-o-the-border Walmart action (our french press broke!! And no, they did not have one) made us think that the five hour drive to Guadalajara was going to take us too far into the evening. Driving in the dark in Mexico is a little riskier than Brian, Claudette and myself are ready to handle. Potholes and crumbling shoulder-less roads are even more dangerous than any ne'er-do-wells that we might encounter. So we decided that Mazatlan could pry one more night out of our fingers, but we were going to stay at a different motel.

I am a believer that all things happen for a reason. The Mariana Hotel is one of those things. For about $30 USD a night we happened on an awesome little room with a amazing balcony, complete with a fridge, barbecue grill, and practically right on the beach. The owners, Alfredo and Vern are some of the greatest people one will ever meet. If you find yourself in Mazatlan, stay at the Mariana Hotel! It wasnt hard to talk ourselves into staying an additional five days. And they have flown by.

Navigating the bus system was easy, while finding our way through the Jaurez Sunday Market was not. This weekly market is the place to be on Sunday mornings, and evidently the whole entire city of Mazatlan was there. Tables and tents set up for what looked like three square miles. You can buy anything from ultra-fresh fruits and veges to parakeets to computers from the early 90s to underwear and shoes to shrimp and octopus. I really believed that if you had the time, energy and will power, you could find absolutely anything at that market. Trying to keep things simple and not too overwhelming, we stuck to pomegranates and quesadilla makings for the BBQ later that night. For under about ten dollars we had fixings for two of the tastiest dinners yet.

In between beach lounging, book browsing at a teeny used english book store, a little pool "borrowing" from a nearby resort and exploring the city on foot and by bus, we were making friends at the little restaurant downstairs of our hotel. Umberto fed us until we nearly burst at the seams while I was trying really hard to beat Brian at our Gin Rummy tournaments. Brian and Umberto bonded over the multiple sports games they watched together on the little 10" television screen.

We were especially lucky when Vern and Alfredo invited us to a BBQ and to the big Dia de Los Muertos party downtown. The Day of the Dead is a celebration of the lives of loved ones who have since passed. Far from being a morbid holiday, Dia de Los Muertos is a time for remembering, honoring, and partying. And boy, do the Mexicans know how to throw a good party. It seemed everyone who was at the Sunday market showed up for the party and parade downtown. Many people were painted and dressed up as Catrinas, the iconic skeleton of the holiday. There were at least five brass bands playing all sorts of Mexican music. Everyone, including myself and Brian, the Catrinas, the bands and the multiple Burro-pulled "beer carts" joined into one big parade that danced itself across town. The only thing you could hear above the music and the laughter of the crowd, even more charmed by the free beer, were the booming fireworks overhead. What a night.

Tomorrow we will say "adios" to Mazatlan and our friends. Onwards to Guadalajara and a little town called Guanajuato. But I have a strange feeling that it wont be a goodbye, but a hasta luego to Mazatlan.

These feet were made for walking, and thats just what they'll do!

All the fresh fish and seafood you could dream about.

The view from the Mariana. Not bad at all.

Ready to bargain?!?

Master of the grill!

Boiling and straining coffee the old fashioned way! I bet the old west cowboys used to strain coffee with their bandanas too. We miss our french press.