If you want a great party, break down 45 kilometers outside of Culiacan on Christmas!

We had one of the best, strangest Christmases ever. It was unplanned and unexpected. It was totally awesome. We had intentions of spoiling ourselves a little by getting a hotel room and celebrating quietly with a few phone calls to friends and family with a couple of oversized margaritas in hand in Mazatlan. But you know what “they” say about making plans, and “they” must have been Overlanders, as making plans while driving the Americas really don't go over well.

Where is the line?

The office at the ferry terminal in La Paz told us to arrive promptly at eight AM, so we did. And then we waited. And waited some more. And kept waiting. One guy would tell us to wait in this line, another guy would tell us to wait in that line. We were good little ferry riders and did as we were told. Well, mostly. A few hours later, as we were nearing the actual ferry dock and getting close to loading, one of the dock workers told me I had to walk on board separately from the van. No one tells me I can’t ride in MY VAN! It was just a little temper-tantrum in Spanish, I promise. haha. Turns out I still couldn’t stay in the van. Neither could Brian after he loaded Peggy-O in the belly of the beast like a Tetris game of semi trucks. Upstairs we went, to endure the crowds with the rest of the passengers, likely around four hundred people is our guess. 

When we finally disembarked around two PM, Brian and I were already over the excitement of the ferry ride. The slow side to side roll of the boat began, and if you refer back a few blog entries to our previous passage on a sail boat from Panama to Columbia, you will know how terribly miserable we both are when it comes to sea travel. After waiting in line for an hour and a half for our lunch gratis, we found that all of the reclining seats had been taken by families and their luggage. Panic began rising as we searched for a spot to sit and comfort our rolling stomachs, only to find most of the decent wall space had been occupied. 

Not happy campers. Sad, very sad campers. 

While the rest of the passengers were more polite, or had more self-respect, I am not sure which, but their good manners kept one prime lounging location free for us gringos. So we made our little camp right under the christmas tree in the main lobby, surrounded by twinkling lights and a snowman holding presents. It was fitting, as it was Christmas Eve and almost made the remaining hours bearable. We ignored the stares and talked about the hot showers and the cold margaritas we were going to give ourselves the next day in Mazatlan. Ohh, we could taste the lime and smell the soap already. 

Hey Ma, look what I can do! No wonder I was so nauseous!  Haha.  There was an actual, real-life Karaoke bar on the ferry. With singers. Really loud singers. This was one of many tables covered in empties. You might imagine how well they sang. Not well at all. My ears are still bleeding a little.

Christmas Camp with Elmo! Thanks for making us take him Andy Jorgenson! 

The children were nestled all snug in their beds; While visions of sugar-plums danced in their heads.


That night we boon-docked at a Pemex (the official Mexican gas station) in Los Mochis, as the ferry had arrived about nine pm, in the dark. We probably have previously mentioned one of our two rules of the road; Don’t drive in the dark. Sometimes we have to fudge this one. The other rule; Never storm off from the van while in a fight, is another story for another blog entry.

Christmas Eve late night dinner, YUM!!

This is real "fast food". Venders come up to your car windows holding their goods at any big tope(speed bump), toll station or traffic light. Fresh oranges, home-made carrot juice, mini-burritos and empanadas make for a breakfast of kings and queens. 

The next day began normally, we woke fairly early considering the great parties and fireworks that lit up the surrounding neighborhoods late into the night. We were flying down the highway about an hour from Culiacan, a few hours from Mazatlan, when we started seeing the temperature gauge increase ever so slightly. The real problem started when smoke started pouring out from under the van. !@&^$(#&@!!! %#$@@!!!!

Someone should let somebody know that this SOS phone in the middle of nowhere doesn't work. At all. 

Brian's mom has re-named our van; Peggy-No!!! ) :

Daniel, the guy who drove the tow truck was really nice. While all three of us were bumpily riding along in the cab of the tow truck, he told us we were going to his family’s house in Culiacan. We would have a place to stay that night, and since there weren't any mechanics open on Christmas, we might as well celebrate with his family. Even if we would have insisted otherwise, he would not have taken no for an answer.

Not many Americans would have done what the Rios family did for a couple of stinky broken-down-van kids. We were welcomed so warmly, fed till bursting and embraced as family for the holiday. We ate, drank, sang, watched funny videos on youtube, laughed, set off fireworks, ate, made shrimp ceviche, played each other our favorite songs, gently teased kids, ate, practiced our spanish and english, pet birds, dogs, and puppies and ate. Brian and I were once again blown away by the kindness and generosity of strangers.

Getting silly in the van. 

It is a good reminder that when things go wrong, don't despair. You never know where you will end up when your plans are thrown to the way side. It may even end up better than you could have imagined. I would chose Christmas in Culiacan a million times over a quiet night in a hotel, hot shower and cold margarita.  

Also wanted to give Ian and Lesley Meredith due propers for the amazing photo of the group and our vans and the scooter! You guys are really awesome and we can't wait to run into you guys on another adventure.